Every good holiday should start with cycling around London. It might sound crazy but it’s a bit like the advice to swallow a frog at breakfast. At least now you know things aren’t going to get any worse.
Don’t get me wrong, I am used to traffic and roundabouts from cycling across Brighton, but Brighton isn’t London. There aren’t as many tourists stepping off pavements without looking, as many side streets, as many street signs and distracting attractions plus in Brighton I know exactly where I’m going. In London, every street is a surprise. Also, I’m not a Londoner so when I see Picadilly Circus my immediate instinct is to go “ooh looky at all the preeety colo – aaaaargh!” (which is the point where I realise I’m on a bicycle in traffic and taxis are insured for killing cyclists plus someone with a camera just stepped backwards off the
pavement in front of me. “Yeah, arigato for that”). It’s strange and cool to be cycling past all the sights of London but it’s also hella scary. I was so intimidated that I refused to navigate around Trafalgar Square and reasoned it’d be quicker to use the pedestrian lights anyway. (A useful trick when pushing a bicycle through a crowd is to always look over people’s shoulders into the distance. They magically take responsibility for their safety and move out of your way).
We got to Euston station in good time but there was a problem with our carriage on the sleeper train. Everyone booked onto car H had to be moved to the lounge car instead. A number of First Class passengers (not on H) kicked up a stink that they couldn’t sit and enjoy their drink in the lounge car and had to take their refreshments in their berth. One in particular was nearly thrown off the train because he couldn’t understand that he might have to be inconvenienced so that people like us would have somewhere to sleep.
We did sleep on the floor of the lounge car (with the lights on all night) and I got about as much sleep as you can expect when sharing a carriage with an obese man whose snoring sounded like wet farts. Confucius say: “only loudest snorer get best night’s sleep”.
So we arrived in Inverness the next morning, as fresh as newly trampled daisies. For those who are not au fait with Scottish geography (like me) the town of Inverness (or Inbhir Nis in Gaelic) lies at the tip of Loch Ness, which together with Loch Lochy neatly cleaves Scotland in two. Loch Ness is HUGE. According to some touristy blurb on a plaque we found, Loch Ness contains more fresh water than all the lakes in England and Wales COMBINED. It doesn’t look that big, because it’s not some vast expansive lake, it’s just very very very very deep and very very very very long. It is also where we met the first midge.
It took us a couple of days to cycle from the West coast, along the Lochs to the East coast (via Fort Augustus and Fort William) and arrive in Oban where we would catch the ferry. We had planned a walk up Ben Nevis while in Fort William but since the weather was so bad that we couldn’t even see Ben Nevis, we figured it wouldn’t be safe to actually be up there. (we’ve done the getting into trouble at the top of a mountain when the weather turns for the worse before. I don’t need to repeat the experience).
So we cycled on to Oban, which is a little fishing village/ferry port that is cute and small and nice but also a bit touristy (Ceilidh evenings every night, anyone?). Bagpipes were meant to strike fear into the hearts of the enemy during battle (the enemy reasoning that if the Scots are capable of slowly torturing a cat for that long, God knows what they’d do to captured prisoners)! In the 1700s, they were classified as an instrument of war and outlawed for this reason after the defeat of Bonnie Prince Charlie – My question is: who brought them back?! Instruments of WAR, people! Sweet music it ain’t.

We found the campsite which turned out to be on top of a hill on a hill located on a hill (that was not a cut and paste error) . The height meant we did have a beautiful view of a bay and the weather was splendid, though.
So the next morning, we caught the ferry to Oban but not before the Sous Chef weighed his panniers down with a bottle of 10 year old Ardbeg, a whisky glass and had a taste of a £180 whisky at the shop. I wish I could elicit that look of true love in his eyes, but until I can become sweet and smokey with not too much peat, I’ll have to get used to being his second favourite thing in the world (or third, after cycling).

The Scottish Highlands
The ferry took 6 hours to carry us to Castlebay on the island of Barra. The Outer Hebrides are like a half-excavated dinosaur skeleton poking out of the Atlantic ocean. Barra is the tail and we would cycle up its spine and catch the ferry home in a week’s time.
Barra is so tiny you could cycle around it before breakfast. We cycled only halfway round before spotting a terrific beach and some grass to camp on. I’m not a beachy person but even I couldn’t resist this entirely deserted stretch of sand and surprisingly warm sea.
Meanwhile the Sous Chef couldn’t resist breaking open the Ardbeg and having his first taste of whisky on the Hebrides. It was worth going all that way just for that one evening, overlooking a beach, sipping Ardbeg, breathing in the crisp Hebridean air and going to sleep with the sound of the ocean. As it turned out, this was not to be our last or even our best beach.